Visiting Wazir Khan’s Mosque in Lahore

In The Time-Warp

Pakistan is by no means stuck in the past. Much of the country is reliant on their IT industry to support its growing middle class. Although you will find wi-fi connections and smartphones in practically any bazaar in Lahore, the way of life and manner that one would go about their day is roughly the same as it would have been a hundred years ago. Peddlers roam the bazaars, shop owners cry out the prices of their goods, locals bargain for deals, steam from the restaurants fill the streets, and the minarets of the Wazir Khan’s Mosque tower overhead.

Donning taqiya and pure white kurtas, many Pakistanis who call the Walled City of Lahore home walk on the same hallowed ground and even doing the same jobs as their ancestors. Just as much as drinking chai and working in their family’s store are integral parts of their daily life, so is praying in the mosque. The only masjid that rivals the Badshahi Mosque in Lahore in terms of history and beauty is the Wazir Khan’s Mosque.

Looking for more shrines in Lahore? Be sure to check out Shah Jamal Darbar!

Entering Wazir Khan’s Mosque

Badshahi Mosque is much more accessible due to being encircled by Fort Road. But the Wazir Khan’s Mosque is sacred ground, carved right into the heart of the sprawling and lawless bazaar of the Walled City. Entering old Lahore from the Delhi Gate, the tacky shops and tourist stalls line the streets leading straight to the mosque. This is one of the only places in all of Lahore where you will actually have to shoo off hawkers. But foreign tourists are far fewer in number when compared to Wazir Khan’s enormous neighbor.

From the second you entire the foyer to slip off your shoes, you can tell that this masjid is unlike any other mosque you have ever visited. The cracks and lines of age only further enhance the stunning beauty of this Mughal era place of worship. When first entering the Wazir Khan’s Mosque, you will notice what seems to be rows of doors, now firmly closed shut. These honeycomb shops used to be home to the centuries-old Calligraphy Bazaar. But as time passed and made the mosque to show its wear, the life within its walls began to vacate.

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The Sanctuary

The faded intricate Mughal floral designs line the walls, leading you all the way from the shoe depository to the mihrab in the sanctuary. With elements borrowed from Persia and Iberia, Wazir Khan’s Mosque embellishes and enriches all elements of traditional Islamic art. While some masjids remain stoic and monochromatic, nearly every inch of the walls of this mosque is flourishing with color. The only bare spaces are those that have been chipped away by time.

It is not uncommon that aspiring journalists, photographers, and your typical selfie snapper will also make a pilgrimage to the mosque amongst the usual devotees. Completed in 1641, the Wazir Khan’s Mosque, really adds to the illusion that you are stepping back into a romantic time of bustling bazaars, Silk Road caravans, and adventure behind every corner. It is no wonder that so many locals hold this masjid in such high reverence.

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View From The Minaret

After spending what may seem like ages on you back on the intricate carpets staring up at the hexagonal patters of the dome in the prayer hall, you may be invited to see Lahore from a whole new perspective altogether. Leading you to a stairway, one of the caretakers of the mosque may be willing to let you climb the minaret for 500 PKR (3.20 USD). Although in local Pakistani currency this may be a lot, it is a steal for the view you get from above.

After a few minutes of huffing and puffing your way up the stairs, you will finally reach the summit of the tower. Any qualms you had with paying the entrance fee will depart as soon as you look out over the empty courtyard planted in the midst of a chaotic city. As if you were standing in the eye of a hurricane, the storm of motorbikes and crowds continue to spin around the outside of the mosque, while the square ushers in a hush upon all those who enter the enclosure.

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Students of Wazir Khan’s Mosque

Without people, a historical relic such as Wazir Khan’s Mosque would be nothing more than an open museum. The paintings and architecture would be a lifeless reminder of the energy that used to fill every corner of this massive masjid. But like much of Pakistan, many parts of traditional life are preserved in the most historic and spiritual places. For centuries the sanctuary has seen students reciting the holy Quran on its carpet. To this day children are still learning and praying together in this mosque.

The young Muslims of the madrasa recite verses and learn life lessons under the careful direction of their teachers. The presence of a foreign tourist is sure to disturb their Islamic studies class, but the imam and teachers are more than welcoming of travelers. Although the students soon become more concerned posing for selfies than their assignments, it is the people that breath life into the mosque.

While in Islamabad you will want to be sure to visit the iconic Shah Faisal Mosque!

The Energy of Pakistan

There is not just one thing that creates this unexplainable energy that surges through the streets and alleys of Pakistan. The anarchy in the streets and candid scenes of the bazaar give an authentic look of daily Lahore life. But it is more than just the bustling markets that win the hearts of all travelers who enter the Walled City.

Many of the shrines and mosques throughout the endless markets of Lahore are an oasis of spirituality, escaping the blaring horns and cries of the city. As if god sent these shrines from above, these sanctuaries seem to have crashed into the labyrinth of the Walled City like meteorites. Carving out their own refuges serenity and peace in the anarchic bazaar. After you slip off your shoes and your toes step onto the cool stone courtyard of the mosque, you can see the presence of God in every brush stroke on the colorful walls and every smile that passes you by.