Attending the Ganda Singh Wala Border Parade in Kasur

One People, Divided

Much like North and South Korea, Pakistan and India are one people divided by a border. Places such as the Ganda Sinh Wala Border in Kasur and the famous Wagah Border outside of Lahore attracts locals and tourist alike to its evening parades. These flag-lowering ceremonies act as a common ground for people of both nations to add a more friendly tone to the otherwise tense situations between the two countries.

While there are cross border shootings in Kashmir and nuclear bombs pointed at each side of the border. These flag lowering ceremonies make the conflicts that arise between Pakistan and India seem like nothing but a casual competition. With faces painted, souvenirs purchased, and flags in hand, patriots from both countries make their way to the arenas situated on the border. All the while the soldiers in their bunkers have their guns cocked and ready to open fire.

Wanting to cross the Wagah Border? Read how to get from India to Pakistan here!

The Closed Highway

Before the Wagah Border was cracked open to allow travel between Pakistan and India, the Ganda Singh Wala was the main crossing. With a wide 4-lane highway leading straight from Lahore to the border, it seems as if you could take the road on for miles. Despite there being signs indicating that New Delhi is merely 360km away. You will be brought to an abrupt stop on the freeway by massive blockades and intimidating soldiers.

While you can approach the border to attend the flag-lowering ceremony, don’t expect to be able to flash your passport and cross over into India. After 1980, the primary border crossing between Indian and Pakistan shifted from Kasur up to Wagah. Although there have been talks of reopening the border to traffic and tourists, the wheels are turning quite slowly. For now, you will just have to settle for the smaller, more intimate border parade held between the two countries.

Have you seen traditional Punjabi wrestling? Check out where to see kushti in Lahore here!

Entering the Arena

The Ganda Singh Wala Border ceremony starts at 4:30 on the Pakistani side. You will want to be sure you come early to get through the many checkpoints leading up to the arena. Different from the Wagah Border, you should have no problems bringing your backpack into the colosseum. A guard will, however, ask for you to take a picture with the flash on if you are bringing in a DSLR.

Much different from the Wagah Border, the Ganda Singh Wala Border arena is much more intimate. Other than the smaller stands, the Indian and Pakistani sides are seated much closer together. One can see clearly the reactions, cheers, and jeers on either side of the border. The Pakistani side, dwarfed by the Indian high-rise stands, fills up quite quickly. Especially if you are wanting a floor seat close to all the action, you will want to be sure to arrive early.

Traveling to Peshawar? Read on how to get to Bab-e-Khyber here!

A Patriotic Duty

In many places, if you are a local, you typically never go to some of the most popular or touristy attractions in your city. For the border parades between Pakistan and India, this is not the case. You not only have groups of children who are bused in from their schools. Locals and country folk will hire vans and buses just to bring them to Kasur. They go through all this trouble for the sole purpose of rooting for their country while the soldiers spin their rifles and stomp their way across the stage in a gallant display of patriotism.

With men seated on one side of the arena and women on the other, the cheers of the crowd almost drown out the zealous anthems and techno beats. The reason why these people flock to the stands every evening is so much more than to gawk at an entertaining showcase of tradition and military prowess. Pakistanis feel as if it is their duty as a citizen to support their country as they take the stage to intimidate their enemies and lower their national flag.

If you are in Swat Valley you won’t want to miss the Jarogo Falls. Read on how to get there from Mingora here!

Whose Side Are You On?

Despite being seated on the Pakistani side of the border, most of your views of the Ganda Singh Wala Border Ceremony will be of the Indian side. While the Pakistani soldiers are busy marching across the stadium, their backs will be turned towards their countrymen as they stare down the khaki-clad rivals cross the border.

What you will see is the many groups of Indian school children seated on the Indian side of the border. Waving their orange and green flags, the students can be seen smiling from ear to ear as they dance and sing their way across the stands. Some young people on either side of the border will attempt to boo or give a thumbs down during the ceremony. The over-enthusiastic children are quickly corrected by their parents or teachers to maintain a more civil atmosphere between the two adversaries.

Uch Sharif is one of the most iconic landmarks in Pakistan. Read on how to get to Uch Sharif here!

The Show Begins

After thirty minutes of the two countries staring at each other from across the border. The Indian and Pakistani soldiers both come storming out onto the marble courtyard. With their boots crashing down on the stage, the echo of their stomping is heard reverberating throughout the stadium. With the cheers from the audience instilling pride in every step, each of the opposing lines of soldiers stands at attention before going through their elaborate daily routine.

Much like the Wagah Border Ceremony, the Ganda Singh Wala parade starts with a soldier from either side holding one-note as they make a screeching call across the border. The howls will finally die down after about ten minutes. The Indian and Pakistani soldiers will then meet one by one at the border dividing the two countries spinning their rifles and swinging their legs up to their shoulders.

The King Faisal Mosque is a must when in Islamabad. Read more on Pakistan’s nation mosque here!

The Stare Down

The bizarre goose-stepping from one side of the border to the other will not be your main takeaway after leaving the border crossing. The passion and anger in the eyes of the soldiers as this competition is taking place highlights the tensions between the two countries. After showing off one’s skills, a soldier will then stomp the ground one last time and fling their arms in the air, challenging their rival to top their performance.

As each boot is brought down with zealous passion, the black and khaki units continue to file out one by one. After each soldier has had his go at one up-ing their competitor from the opposite side of the border, the time will come to finally lower the flags and close the border for the night.

Thinking about traveling to Multan? Read my safety guide on Multan here!

Wagah or Ganda Singh Wala?

Although the purpose is the same, there are several major differences between the Ganda Singh Wala and Wagah Border ceremonies. The most obvious of these differences is that the parade in Kasur is far smaller, or intimate as some would call it. In Wagah, it is difficult to make out the audience members on the Indian side of the border. At Ganda Singh Wala you are practically waving and exchanging smiles at each other.

At the end of the ceremony, soldiers from opposing countries will actually enter Pakistan and India to lower the flags. At Wagah however, they both straddle the line dividing the border. The last major difference between Kasur and Wagah is how long the ceremony lasts. At Wagah, you can expect to be watching the goose-steeping and listening to the howling for about 2 hours. At Ganda Singh Wala, the ceremony is far shorter, lasting barely an hour.

If you are going to be in Delhi, be sure to check out my guide on getting off the beaten path!

Cracking Open the Gates

The Wagah Border is the only crossing between Pakistan and India which is regularly open for travelers. While there are many other points of entry such as Munabao and Ganda Singh Wala, these borders are not reliable crossings or have been shut down altogether.

In recent years, Pakistan has made huge strides in tightening its grip on extremism in the country and opening its borders to foreign travel. As curious backpackers continue to trickle into Pakistan, it won’t be long until the flood gates are unleashed and the beauty of the country is unveiled to an unsuspecting world. Inevitably, the small gate at Wagah will have to be cracked open just a tad bit more. And if God will’s it, tourists will may even one day be crossing to Kasur through