Visiting the Gods of Miyajima Island

The Mystical Island of Itsukushima

Other than the snowcapped volcano of Mount Fuji, Itsukushima’s shrines and temples are probably the scenes that first captured your heart and had you dreaming of traveling to Japan.  This entire island nation has a certain spiritual feel to it. Travelers can sense these magical whisps as they explore the neon-lit alleys of Tokyo just as well as when they are seeking solitude in some of the more remote temples in the country.

Itsukushima, also known as Miyajima which translates to “Island of Shrines“, is one corner of Japan where you can truly immerse yourself in the presence of these charming ghosts. As you take the ferry from the mainland in the early morning, the fog will begin to recede, revealing the orange spirit gate wading in the sea to greet you. From the very second you step foot on Miyajima you can feel the spirits walking alongside while you explore every corner of the island of Itsukushima.

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Getting to Itsukushima

Being less than an hour outside of Hiroshima, many people decide to make a day trip to Miyajima island. But you will first have to figure out how to get to Itsukushima. Armed with a JR Pass, you will be exploring the island and making the pilgrimage to secluded temples in no time.

Simply hop on the JR Sanyo to Miyajimaguchi Station. This train leaves every 5-minutes from Hiroshima. The ferry terminal with the boat to Itsukushima can be found just two minutes outside of the station. Both the train and the ferry are included in the JR Pass.

While it is possible to get to Miyajima and back to Hiroshima in a day, you will have to tear yourself away from the island. To truly experience all the alluring hikes and off-worldly temples of Itsukushima, you will have to spend a few days exploring Miyajima coast to coast.

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The Itsukushima Shrine

From the second you board the ferry that takes tourists to Miyajima, your eyes will be fixated on the red torri which cuts through the thick mist which adds a sense of mystery to the island. Long ago, all pilgrims to Itsukushima has to pass through the gate to enter the island. Although this practice is long gone, the torri still lures all visitors of the island to its mighty pillars.

After landing in Miyajima, your heart will be fixated on seeking out this floating shrine. Passing by the many tame deer (much like Nara) and stone lantern along the path, you will finally come to the entrance of the Itsukushima Shrine. Guarded by a ticket booth allowing tourists into the temple for 1,000 yen (9.20 USD), you will thoughtlessly empty your wallet to get the chance to see this gate up close. Especially during the early morning with low tide, you will be able to walk out across the sand and gave up at the curved arches of this iconic gate.

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Beating the Crowds to the Gate

The name Itsukushima translated to “Island dedicated to the gods”. At one time, no person was allowed to set foot on Miyajima because the entire island was considered to be a god. While restrictions on travel to the island have been relaxed, no births no deaths are still allowed near the island in order to protect its purity. Those in the final stages of their pregnancy or on the brink of death will not be permitted to venture to Itsukushima.

Despite the restrictions once put on travel to the island, the gates are still open to the thousands upon thousands of tourists who are ferried to Miyajima. Regarded as one of the historic 3 Views of Japan, it is no wonder that travelers from around the world would flock to Itsukushima. But with so many people struggling and squirming past each other to see the same sight, you will have to arrive early to beat the crowds. Many religious ceremonies also take place in the wee hours of the morning, adding a further sense of immersion into the culture of the island.

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Traveling to Daisho-in Temple

While the Itsukushima Shrine may be one of the most iconic sites in all of Japan, the Daisho-in Temple is the one sanctuary where you can truly feel the presence of the spirits of the island. Nestled into the base of Mount Misen, this temple is the gateway to the paths snaking up the mountainside up to the peak of Miyajima Island.

With fluttering flags waving you on from either side of the staircase leading into the temple, you can feel with each step you are coming a little bit closer to the spirit world. The multi-colored banners turn into spinny sutra wheels, and eventually into the faces of a thousand buddhas beaming up at you as you continue the climb into the temple.

There are many courtyards, shrines, and halls that make up this reflective temple, but one of the hollowest places in actually found in the depths of the mountain. This dark cave is dimly lit by the hundreds of lanterns hung overhead. Adorned with 88 icons representing the Shikoku Pilgrimage, this is one of the many places in the Daisho-in Temple where you can feel the spirits of Miyajima pass through you.

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Island of the Gods

Japan is a country where it is easy to slowly lose your mind. The whimsical and spiritual nature of the island nature slowly seeps into your mind. With both comical and ghastly creatures found in Japan’s glistening cities and remote mountains, you can not escape the feeling that you are constantly being watched by some shadow hovering behind you.

Out of all the temples you will visit in Japan, Daiso-in Temple in Miyajima is one of the places where your mind will start spinning. Unable to escape the gaze of thousands of stone deities watching your every move. With your heart beating with the pounding of the drums in the temple, your eyes will dart frantically in your head, jumping from one cold haunting visage to the next. While this experience may strike fear into the hearts of some, reaching the edge of the terrestrial plane can be exhilarating for others.

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What To Do On Miyajima

Once you have taken your postcard picture in front of the Itsukushima Shrine and sat with the gods in the gardens of Daisho-in Temple, you may start wondering what to do next. From Daisho-in Temple you will find trails leading up to the summit of Mount Misen. There is also a ropeway that takes tourists to the peak but being just a 1.5 hour, you may find no need to shell out the 1,800 yen (16.60 USD) to get to the top.

Other than the tourist traps of the Old Town on Miyajima, you will also find several other temples throughout the island. Set just behind the Itsukushima Shrine, the 5-story crimson Toyokuni Shrine is a defining piece of the “Miyajima Skyline”. Nearby you will also find the Daiganji Temple. Throughout the island, you will find hundreds of various alters and stone deities. While you should, of course, check off the most iconic sights, the best way to explore Miyajima is by getting a little bit lost.

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The Best Place to Experience Japan

Most travelers who are short on time in Japan usually confine themselves to a massive city like Tokyo or Osaka. While these cities are teeming with life and all the best parts of Japan from modern youth culture to ancient traditions, Miyajima is an island where you can truly feel the soothing presence of the country.

Eerie blue mornings with mist rolling across the waves and the beats of drums echoing from the temples, this island is a refuge for the centuries-old soul of Japan. While other parts of the country were quick to modernize, Miyajima became a haven for the spirits who were drowned out by the noise of the cities. Although you will still have to find a way to drown out the sound of the crowds, Itsukushima will have you walking side by side with the ghosts of ancient Japan.