Looking From Dandong’s Great Wall Into North Korea

Dandong: The Backdoor to North Korea

It is understandable if you are not quite ready to take the plunge into the heart of North Korea. Lucky for you, Dandong (丹东) offers a first-hand showcase of the DPRK from the comfort of the Chinese side of the Yalu River.

Despite the obvious lure of staring down one of the world’s most secretive nations from across the border, little to no foreign tourists can be found in Dandong. Especially in the dead of winter. The frozen over water and desolate landscape set the mood for those wanting to stare into North Korea.

Wanting to book a tour to North Korea? Read about Young Pioneers Tours here!

North Korea’s Lifeline

For the Chinese living in Dandong, North Korea is big business. Not only with the imports and exports coming from the country and elsewhere around the world. But also from selling boat tours to tourists who want to get even closer to the banks of the DPRK. The riverfront is full of North Korean restaurants and peddlers selling Kim Jong Il memorabilia.

While nothing can’t quite touch the outlandish and one-of-a-kind experience one will have actually stepping foot into North Korea, Dandong is the next best thing!

Want to cross the border from China to Kyrgyzstan? Read more on the Irkeshtam Pass here!

Chinese New Year in Dandong

Like most places around the country during Chinese New Year, Dandong turns into something of a ghost town. Many of the restaurants close up shop and families empty the concrete megacities to be reunited with their relatives in the countryside.

Dandong is no exception. After passing through the frozen landscape of Liaoning Provence (辽宁省) from Beijing, you will arrive at the end of the line in Dandong. The only passengers continuing on the train are those lucky few who will get to take a glimpse at what lies over the river in North Korea.

Despite the cities gray and industrial look, Chinese New Year adds a splash of color to the otherwise drab city. The fireworks displayed proudly on the street corners, lanterns hanging from windows, and tattered firecrackers littering the streets brings a vibrant red color to cut through the grey.

Take a look at Pyongyang’s Children’s Palace here!

Remembering the Korean War

Just like on the South Korean side of the border with its war memorials and heroic statues. Dandong is also home to countless monuments but with a very different tone.

During the Korean War, the Americans overextended themselves and threatened to invade China by crossing the Yalu River. Seen as an act of aggression, China retaliated and pushed the United States back to the 38th parallel. The location of the current border between North and South Korea.

While the Americans were retreating away from the Yalu River, they made sure to bomb the bridges connecting Korea to China. Today, the remnants of one of these bridges serve as a reminder of the carnage of the Korean War. Tourists can now make their way across what is left of the bridge for 30 RMB.

If you are looking to truly see if you are ready to tour the secrets of North Korea, you will first have to visit Dandong’s Memorial of the War to Resist American Aggression and Aid Korea (抗美援朝纪念馆) Throughout these halls, visitors will get a firsthand look at interactive exhibits showcasing the horrors of the Korean War and how the Chinese Army heroicly defeated the imperialist American forces.

For those coming from western countries, you will have to keep an open mind. Consider this the first test before you decide to book a tour to travel to North Korea.

Want to see more of Chinese War history? Be sure to travel to Kinmen!

Jinjiangshan Park 锦江山公园

No trip to any city in China would be complete without first visiting a public park. Not only known for their natural beauty. Chinese parks are a place where the community comes together to socialize, exercise, and partake in traditional activities such as singing, dancing, and painting.

Dandong’s Jinjiangshan Park offers everything every other park in China has from classical pavillions to relaxing ponds. What makes the park unique, however, is the pagoda which stands at the top of the mountain overlooking Dandong. From the second you look at Jinjiang Pagoda, it is obvious that it doesn’t quite fit with any of the other towers you may have seen in China. This is because Dandong’s pagoda was built centuries ago by a Japanese monk.

Today, from the pagodas roost at the top on Jinjiangshan, travelers are given a stunning view of the city of Dandong. As well as an ariel view into the frozen landscape inside of North Korea.

Want to see another city in China off the beaten path? Be sure to visit Yulin!

Dandong’s Own Great Wall: Tiger Mountain Great Wall (虎山长城)

Little known to many, even Chinese, Dandong is home to its very own section of the Great Wall. Excavated only in 1989, Dandong was quick to renovate sections of the wall and open them to the public by 1992. Known as the easternmost section of the Great Wall of China, the fortress snakes along the back of Tiger Mountain. Hence the name, Tiger Mountain Great Wall.

In the dead of winter, not a soul will be seen stumbling up the steep slippery steps of Dandong’s Great Wall. Even the low price of only 60 RMB is not enough for most people to brave the cold to explore the remains of the bygone Chinese Empire.

Like most places in Dandong, all eyes are on the North Korean border. The Tiger Mountain Great Wall is no exception. From the topmost guard tower, visitors are given a look staring straight down into some of the villages of North Korea. For 10 RMB there are even binoculars available for hire which will give you a closer look at the shifting shapes going about their day across the border.

Want to see another forgotten part of the Great Wall of China? Check out the dirt wall in Inner-Mongolia!

All Eyes on North Korea

No matter where you visit in Dandong, it seems that all eyes are turned towards North Korea. From the top of Jinjiangshan Park to the Great Wall of China, the focal point of nearly every attraction in Dandong is to get a closer glimpse at what life is like across the border.

Just because you are on the Chinese side of the border doesn’t mean you should let your guard down. Be prepared for random police check-ups, especially if you find yourself wandering along the border with North Korea. Dandong is also not free from its own conspiracies either. A Canadian couple who owned a coffee shop in Dandong was accused of spying in 2014 and were quickly arrested. It was later uncovered that they were doing Christian mission work which is illegal in China. Much like North Korea, in Dandong, it is essential to play by the rules and keep your toes behind the line.

Dandong is a city which will give you an experience unlike any other place in China. Along the banks of the Yalu River, the lines between Korean and Chinese culture seamlessly blend together giving you the best of both country’s cuisine, culture, and history. And who knows? After spending a few days in Dandong you may be able to muster up the courage to take the dive right into the heart of North Korea.