Krishna Janmashtami in Tansen Palpa

Celebrating Krishna Janmashtami in Tansen

Hinduism has a massive pantheon of gods and various reincarnations of the same gods. In the Hindu world, you can expect nearly every day to be a holiday. From local festivals celebrating a single shrine to elaborate festivals that shake entire cities, holidays within Hindu communities are truly an off worldly affair.

For many tourists, stumbling upon one of these pujas (Hindu worships) are the very moments that make your journey to Nepal the stuff of legend. Trying to paint these scenes to your friends back home of all the music, dancing, and colors will only sell short the true wonderment of Hindu festivals.

One of the largest festivals in Nepal for Hindus is Krishna Janmashtami, a holiday celebrating the birth of Lord Krishna. In many cities, the day is marked with fasting, music, and dance. In Tansen, however, Krishna Janmashtami is a much more electrifying festival.

Looking for more to do in Tansen? Check out my full guide on what to do in Tansen here!

Crowds on Tundikhel

Other than the temples and shrines which are tucked away within the Newar city of Tansen, Tundikhel is one of the most lively places during a festival.

This large plot of dirt is typically used as a makeshift track and sports ground. During a holiday such as Krishna Janmashtami, the patchy field will come alive with song and dance.

While wandering through the narrow steep streets of Tansen, the deafening horns and drums can be heard reverberating throughout the city. The rhythmic drumming will pull you through the old town by the ears until you ultimately step onto the muddy grounds of Tundikhel.

Want to celebrate more local holidays? Be sure to visit Putalibazar for the Ropai Festival!

A District-Wide Competition

Music and dance may be an integral part of Krishna Janmashtami, but the bands blaring their horns on Tundikhel had little to do with the religious holiday.

The crowds which have massed around the stage on Tansen’s athletic field were watching a district-wide competition. Villagers from all corners of Palpa came together in the capital of Tansen to compete in a contest of traditional music. Each of the groups donned tradition clothing from their caste or ethnic group and played their heart out in hopes of winning the prize money.

More important than winning first place, this small concert gives an opportunity for locals to showcase their own ethnic culture. While many cultures around the world are being beaten and molded by globalization, Palpa still embodies what makes their people unique.

Love singing and dancing? Check out the pujas at Chhangchhangdi Temple in Syangja!

Stealing the Show

No matter how great a band may play, it is the dancers who truly steal the show. As unfortunate as it may be for the ensemble of old men who put their heart and soul into their music, the villages who brought along dancers dressed in traditional garb are the ones that captivated the audience.

As the bands blared their horns and beat their madals, the local men and women from their respective village spun around in the empty pit between the massive crowd and the stage. Moving in tune with the beat of the drum, these performers truly make the music come alive. Due to the general stiffness of the bands, they could only dream of having the intensity which these dancers had in the middle of Tundikhel.

Of course, looks are sure to play a role in the final judgment on who will be crowned the winner of Tansen’s song competition. But the dancing and dress of the competitors are just as important on preserving tradition as the music.

Want to get a bit off the beaten path in Pokhara? Be sure to visit Matepani Monastery!

Promoting Tansen

Other than bringing together different cultures and ethnic groups throughout Palpa, the city of Tansen has other plans which they are trying to put into motion. Tansen is located on the very highway which links the busy border town of Sunauli with the tourist hub of Pokhara.

Every day, tour buses bring loads of travelers barrelling down the highway straight past Tansen on the way to the tourist comforts of Pokhara. The government of Tansen is trying to change this by putting their hilltop city on the map. Holidays such as Krishna Janmashtami now have an extra layer of festivities to not only add to the vibrancy of the day but also promote Tansen to the world.

Want to see what it’s like celebrating holidays in a small Nepali village? Read about celebrating Janai Purnima!

The Clock Nears Midnight

While there were spinning dancers decked out in traditional dress and music blasting from Tundikhel, the real preparations for Krishna Janmashtami took place on an otherwise busy intersection in the heart of Tansen.

In Markhan Tole, just outside Tansen’s own Durbar Square, a colorful tent was erected in the middle of the street. IF you were unaware that it was Krishna Janmashtami, you could almost mistake the decorations for being that of a wedding. With a bubble gum exterior adorned with flowers, this canvas display housed lifelike statues of Ganesh, Rukmini, and of course Krishna.

While in Tansen be sure not to miss Amar Narayan Temple!

The Birth of Lord Krishna

Like many other religions throughout the world, Krishna was a god sent to earth to save mankind. Lord Krishna was born in a prison during a time when evil ran rampant and demons reigned supreme. Once word of the birth of Krishna reached the villainous Kamsa, attempts were made to kill the god. Krishna managed to escape and was raised in secret until the time came for him to banish darkness from the earth.

Other than the singing and dancing which marks the birth of Lord Krishna, at midnight statues of the god are usually washed and clothed. Another custom is to lay a figure of baby Krishna into a cradle and rock him back in forth as a form of worship.

One of the traditions that truly make Krishna Janmashtami stand apart from all the other holidays in Hinduism is that families will dress their children in the likeness of Lord Krishna. While touring the idols of the gods in the hot pink tent and taking prasad, these little Krishnas can be seen clinging on to their mothers, flute in hand.

Krishna Janmashtami is a holiday which can be as small as a few family members fasting in their homes to as large as full-blown festivals in the center of a city. Even in Tansen, the festivities for the birth of Lord Krishna are somewhat overshadowed with the buzz of yet another holiday the following day: the Bhagwati Jatra.