Hsinchu “Removing of Cangue”: Ghost Month 脫枷消業植福法會

Removing the Shackles

During Ghost Month (鬼月), many houses throughout Taiwan take painstaking measures to avoid the attention of unwanted spirits. While some will watch their step during Zhongyuan Festival (中元城隍祭), others will lay out offerings at their door for the hungry ghosts. Hsinchu, on the other hand, goes all out with processions and traditions during this month. One of its most famous events is the “removing of the cangue” (脫枷消業植福法會).

Cangues are square or triangular stocks that were used in East Asia to punish and humiliate criminals. Today, they are a metaphor for atoning for one’s sins or the things one has done in the past year. Much like confessing to a priest, believers will march to have their wrongdoings forgiven in front of a god. Leaving them with a clean conscious.

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Parading Through the Streets

The act of wearing a “yoke” and removing the cangue is a practice that is done throughout Taiwan. Hsinchu, however, is the best city to see this Ghost Month tradition on full display. After the Ghost Gates are opened the night before, the procession will be held on the next day. On the 1st day of the 7th month according to the lunar calendar “sinners” will mass in front of City God Temple (新竹城隍廟) in the afternoon.

Crowds line up for blocks all wearing the same yellow triangles around their necks. These cangues do not come cheap either. For one of these paper yellow yokes, participants will have to shell out 700 NT (23 USD) to have their sins forgiven. Even if you’re not paying to participate in the procession, spectators are more than welcome to join in the parade. After checking in and having their stocks secured around their necks, believers will then await the sound of the drums and horns before starting the march through the streets of Hsinchu.

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Showcase of Hsinchu

The route to remove the cangue takes believers by many of the best sights in downtown Hsinchu. Starting from Chenghuang Temple, the procession passes the East Gate, the Hsinchu Image Museum, the Mayor’s Office, and ends by Changhe Temple. Many of the streets will be closed off for the nearly 2,000 people snaking through the heart of Hsinchu.

Along the way, don’t be surprised to see many politicians with their faces plastered on the side of the road. Much like in a marathon, supporters will be handing out water and refreshments for those marching to remove the yellow triangle shackles. Although the procession only takes nearly an hour, political candidates will still jump at the chance of having their names known.

If you want to read more about Changhe Temple, be sure to check out this article here!

Reviving a Tradition

The bulk of the procession is made up of those looking to leave the ceremony with a clear conscience. In reality, this symbolic gesture has much bigger implications. The tradition of “removing shackles” (夯枷) goes back hundreds of years. Much like many traditions, however, the act of wearing cangue died out and the processions ceased in 1997.

It wasn’t until 2014 that this custom was resurrected. The reason for its revival was not due to an outcry of believers looking for a way to be forgiven of their sins. The year 2014 was marked by many disasters in Taiwan. From political turmoil to acts of terror, people were looking for some way out of this time of uncertainty. Therefore, people flocked to be chained into a cangue in order to appease the gods.

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Calling Out the Sins

The tradition of “removing the shackles” continues to this day. After starting from Hsinchu’s City God Temple, participants will then march past Changhe Temple to the outside of the Zhangzhi Family Temple (鄭氏家廟). Pulling up  the end of the procession are the escorts of hell (七爺八爺) and the God of Yinyang (陰陽司). Setting up in a tent, the two escorts are set on either side of the entrance. Yinyang Gong is placed at the far end of the tent looking out over rows of tables.

Taoist priests (師公) wait at each table to receive the cangue from the participants and read out the “sins” to the god. Acting as the secretary for the City God (城隍爺), it is Yinyang Gong’s duty to record the wrongdoings of humans before sending them to the underworld or having them reincarnated. This ceremony is a chance to stand in front of a god and truly repent for one’s wrongs. Believers can end up standing for over an hour before finally having their yellow pillory removed.

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Part of a Community

The “removing of the cangue” is so much more than just another Ghost Month custom. Seeing a city come out in full force to maintain a local tradition is what keeps culture alive. You may not believe that the act of confessing your sins will have any effects on terrorism levels in the country or your chances of being reincarnated. But what it does do is keep the heart of Hsinchu beating.

During the “casting off of the shackles”, the entire downtown of Hsinchu becomes your playground. Many of the busy streets that are plagued by dangerous traffic are briefly given back to the people. As you tour many of Hsinchu’s most iconic landmarks, you’ll be experiencing all the best sights and traditions of the city at the same time.

If you want to see all the best things to do in Hsinchu, be sure to check out this list here!