Hsinchu Park Lakeside Ryotei 新竹湖畔料亭

Luxurious Remains

Throughout Taiwan, you can find many remains of the Japanese colonial era. Much like many other colonial power, the Japanese sought to disconnect the locals from their roots and rebuild the country in their own image. This is one of the main reasons why it is far easier to come across traditional Japanese architecture in Hsinchu, rather than houses that have survived since the Qing Dynasty.

Hsinchu Park showcases much of the city’s history. With one of the oldest zoos (新竹動物園) in all of Taiwan and a Confucious Temple (新竹孔廟), it is no wonder why the park (新竹公园) is often used to represent Hsinchu culture as a whole. What is most eye-catching, is the collection of traditional ryotei (湖畔料亭). Ryotei are luxurious restaurants meant only for the Japanese elite. The time of housing kimono-doning waitresses and high-level politicians is over, but all of the charm and character of the lakeside ryotei is very much alive.

While in Hsinchu Park, be sure to also check out the weekend flower market!

Li Lake (麗池)

Nearly every corner of Hsinchu Park has a story to tell. Hsinchu Park was one of the 2 parks completed by the Japanese in Hsinchu. The other is Forest Park on 18 Peak Mountain. One of the focal points of the park is Li Lake. Originally meant as a swimming pool for children, the tranquil waters are typically enjoyed by families strolling along the banks. A traditional 9-turn Bridge (九曲橋) stretches over Li Lake, offering many different angles to appreciate the park.

Hiding on the other end of the lake is the Lakeside Ryotei. Peaking through the woods, the Lakeside Ryotei was originally built in 1931. This group of four houses was meant to entertain Hsinchu’s most powerful politicians and wealthy businessmen. The Lakeside Ryotei were highly exclusive restaurants that you could only visit with an invitation.

The ritz and glamor of the Lakeside Ryotei in Hsinchu Park did not last forever. After the Japanese were defeated, the once luxurious ryotei was handed over to the airforce. For years, the buildings were occupied by the families of servicemen before being abandoned. The pavilion would have been demolished if it wasn’t for locals standing up and saving each of the historic buildings one by one. Slowly, the Hsinchu Park Lakeside Ryotei was rebuilt and turned into what you see today.

Hsinchu Park’s Ryotei wasn’t the only military neighborhood. Be sure to also visit General Village!

Setting Up Shop

The Hsinchu Park Lakeside Ryotei may have been saved from the wrecking ball, but the buildings still needed some life within their walls. Being a tourist hot spot in Hsinchu, many businesses have their eyes on this small neighborhood of historic Japanese houses. Despite years of uncertainty, finally, shops have finally found a home along the banks of Li Lake.

In recent years, Woo Table (物餐桌) has taken residence in two of the buildings that make up the Hsinchu Lakeside Ryotei. One of the shops has a quaint lounge, coffee shop, and handmade goods dispersed along the tops of decorative tables and shelves. The neighboring house is known as Woo Select (不只是選物店). The interior is made to look like an old-timey general store. Other than the typical drinks and snacks you’d find at a convenience store, you’ll also find many products made by local artists and independent craftsmen from around Taiwan.

If you’re a fan of traditional gardens, make sure to visit Xianfuyuan Park in Zhubei!

A Night Out On The Town

The remaining two traditional Japanese houses of the Hsinchu Park Lakeside Ryotei are upscale restaurants organized under the name Ritz Lakeside (麗池生活美學館). The most iconic of the buildings has to be the quaint house with a large patio facing Li Lake. The historic building is currently the home of a restaurant and coffee shop simply known as Lakeside (麗池畔). Although the prices are a bit steep, guests can still grab a drink and enjoy a view of the water and park from the cafe.

The last of the shops at the Hsinchu Park Lakeside Ryotei is known as Phenoix Pavillon (鳳亭). This reservation-only sushi restaurant echos the time when the local elite would dine by Li Lake. At least, as far as the bill is concerned. The otherwise “fancy” atmosphere of the restaurant is interrupted by a rack of clothing in the middle of the dining room. Customers can slip into a kimono and take some pictures with the traditional Japanese interior and lake in the background. While this does make the dining experience more fun, it takes away from marking a special occasion and dropping a load of cash for an upscale restaurant.

Another historic Japanese restaurant you’ll want to make sure to visit in Hsinchu is Jingtingjia: Izakaya.

Going Abroad in Hsinchu

For many locals, Hsinchu Park Lake Ryotei is a place where you can escape Taiwan and pretend that you are strolling through Japan. Throughout decades of changes, little is left of the original ritzy colonial Japanese restaurants. The oldest surviving structure is actually the simple stone bridge connecting the collection of houses. Despite the years of deconstructing and rebuilding, the area still has an undeniable charm that attracts curious passersby.

What is unfortunate about the Hsinchu Park Ryotei, is that many of the shops change hands every few months. Don’t be surprised if the general store and dress-up sushi restaurant are serving something completely different by the time you arrive in Hsinchu. Much like how the ryotei went from being a luxurious restaurant to a military village, Hsinchu Park is always finding new ways to reinvent itself.

Looking for more of the top things to do in Hsinchu? You can find a complete list here!