Traditional House of Dr. Li Kecheng 李克承博士故居

Forgotten Hsinchu: The Residence of Dr. Li Kecheng

Hsinchu’s Former Residence of Dr. Li Kecheng (李克承博士故居) is one of the few traditional Japanese houses in the city that have survived the test of time. Scattered in back alleyways and enclosed by walls of brick, lined with shattered glass, many of these wooden time capsules have been left to collapse on themselves.  Curious passersby usually can not help but stand up on their toes to catch a glimpse of old Taiwan.

Unknown to your average traveler, and maybe even most locals, Hsinchu is home to many of these aging relics. While most of these houses have been left to rot with no hope in sight, there are other old homes that have been brought back from the dead. Roofs have been retiled, wood has been replaced, and now people liven the halls with laughter and curiosity. One of the finest examples of these traditional Taiwanese homes in Hsinchu is Dr. Li Kecheng’s residence.

Looking for more to do in Hsinchu? Be sure to check out the Chenghuang Temple!

Finding Dr. Li Kecheng’s Former Residence

Like many old-style houses in Hsinchu, Li Kecheng’s house is hidden down back alleys. Out of view from your average person on the street, these time capsules act as an escape from all the hustle and bustle of the city. The blaring of horns and noises of Hsinchu seem to disappear as you duck off of the street and enter this small century-old oasis.

In order to find Dr. Li Kecheng’s residence, you’ll need to keep your eyes open. Your first time visiting the coffee shop, you are bound to pass by the entrance several times without knowing where you are going. In the shadow of the Far Eastern Department Store (大遠百 新竹店), you’ll find the alleyway leading to the Japanese style house directly behind the megamall off of Shengli Road (勝利路199號).  Ironically enough, there is even a cookie-cutter Starbucks located inside the mall nearly directly in front of the coffee shop.

Japanese Architecture in Hsinchu

Hsinchu has gone through several transitions during its lifetime. The Qing Dynasty, the Japanese Empire, and finally the Kuomintang, each tore down their predecessor’s buildings and rebuilt Hsinchu in their own image. Only a few remnants of the Qing Dynasty’s city wall remain. Many Japanese shrines and structures also met the same fate when the Kuomintang enacted their revenge by means of a wrecking ball. Today, only a handful of half-century-old government buildings and houses exist throughout the city.

Fortunately, the Hsinchu government has gone to great lengths to rebuild and revive parts of the old city. Many of the houses that were once caving in on themselves have had new life breathed into them. The Residence of Dr. Li Kecheng is one of these few.

The second you pass through the gate, you will feel the pressure of city life being left behind you. The traditional Japanese house and its garden act as an oasis. The eye of the hurricane in the middle of an endlessly whirling city of motorbikes, cars, and bikes.

We know you can’t wait to get more off the beaten path! Be sure to visit the abandoned houses of Wanli!

Grab a Bite

Many of the historical houses in Hsinchu have been rebuilt and maintained by the local government. The government will then rent out the spaces to different artists, restaurants, and coffee shops. The Residence of Dr. Li Kecheng is currently home to a coffee shop called a-moom.

The coffee shop itself is decent. They also have many pastries, salads, and sandwiches that you can order. The menu is nothing to write home about. You can find many coffee shops which offer the same dishes. The fact is that you are paying for an experience. The coffee and snacks are secondary. With your beverage in hand, you can slowly sip on your tea and take in the traditional atmosphere of the house.

If you are looking for more history and great food, you won’t want to miss the famous Jiufen!

Stepping into the Past

Being a traditional Japanese house, you’ll need to take off your shoes when entering the coffee shop. There are some slippers placed near the entrance, but these are meant to be outside shoes for the baristas. If you accidentally put them on, your feet will meet the wooden floor with a loud bang. Attracting the attention of every server and customer in the house.

Don’t be surprised if you are left with no choice but to enjoy your coffee in the courtyard. Li Kecheng’s Residence usually fills up quickly. Some people will ever call ahead of time to make sure they have a seat. Even if you find yourself enjoying your coffee outdoors, you are more than welcome to explore the inside of the historic house. If the place is packed you may find it hard to take in every detail without disturbing other customers. If you don’t want to call ahead of time you may want to head to the coffee shop as soon as they open. a-moom is open every day from 9 am-5 pm except for Mondays.

Heading south to Kaohsiung? Be sure to head over to Fo Guang Shan Buddhist Monastery!

Who is Dr. Li Kecheng?

The place where the monstrous behemoth known as the Far Eastern Department Store now stands was once the location of a large hospital. The house was originally built by three shop owners in 1943. Later, the home was given to Dr. Li Kecheng and his wife. The couple lived in the traditional style house for all of their life. Li Kecheng was one of the most important doctors in all of Hsinchu. He was highly regarded by both the Japanese and the Taiwanese government throughout the country’s history.

Unlike many of the other historical houses around Hsinchu, Li Kecheng’s residence was never left to rot and decay with age. After Li Kecheng passed away, the home was given to the Hsinchu government. Over the years, the house has been home to many cultural events and performances. The house has finally transitioned to how we see it today: a place where people can sit and enjoy a taste of old-world living.

If you find yourself in the capital, check out this list of things you must do in Taipei!

Preserving Hsinchu

The residence of Dr. Li Kecheng serves as the perfect metaphor for Hsinchu as a whole. In the eyes of many tourists and travelers, the city has little to offer on the surface. Nearly every city in Taiwan has a handful of large brick government buildings that you can take your picture in front of. Little do they know that the heart of Hsinchu is not found off of the main streets, but down its back alleys.

This traditional experience in Hsinchu is one you will not want to miss. Not only can you visit this historic Japanese house, but you can even take a seat and pretend you are living a hundred years in the past. No matter if you find yourself out in the courtyard or in the house itself, Li Kecheng’s traditional Japanese house is sure to be one of the most memorable parts of your trip to Hsinchu!

Wanting to look for more culture in Taiwan? You will need to be sure to experience a temple fair!