Getting an Afghanistan Visa in Khorog

 Why Travel to Afghanistan?

Traveling to Afghanistan is about as off the beaten track as one can get. Despite the country’s rich history and vibrant culture, Afghanistan sees little to no tourism due to ongoing conflicts with extremists. Images of repression and war cross the minds of the common person with the mere mention of the name “Afghanistan”.

While many places are still plagued by the Taliban and violence, there is a door left open for tourists at one of the most remote regions of the country: The Wakhan Corridor.

After crossing the border from neighboring Tajikistan into Afghanistan, your options are limited. Most travelers head east further into the Wakhan corridor and the little Pamirs. Traveling inwards into Afghanistan is nearly impossible due to the Taliban being located a mere 30 km away.

Despite the limitations, Ishkashim is an oasis of stability and open-mindedness. Other than having idyllic natural beauty, the people are extremely welcoming and are willing to share all the comforts of their homes in exchange for good company. Truly showing travelers Afghan hospitality.

Getting a visa in Khorog

Once you’ve conquered your initial fears and reservations about traveling to Afghanistan, your next step would be to get your Afghan tourist visa in Khorog. The trip from Dushanbe to Khorog will take anywhere between 14-16 hours costing from 200-250 Somoni. From Murghab, it will take around 8 hours costing about 150 Somoni.

The consulate is open from 9-2 Monday through Friday. When first approaching the consulate, you will notice a small window looking into the complex. The bell does not work, so you will have to shout out to get someone’s attention. After asking a few routine questions, you will be given a visa application and a blank sheet of paper to state that the consulate is not responsible for anything that may happen to you during your stay in Afghanistan.

Typically, the visa process will take a few days. I was able to pick it up the next day, however, since I did not want to wait over the weekend. The cost is 220 USD for Americans and 150 USD for other applicable nationalities. There is a 50-dollar fee for rush service.

The Afghan Consulate is located just left of Pamir Lodge:

You can find the most recent visa information here.

For Wi-fi and travel information while in Khorog visit the PECTA office

Getting to Ishkashim

After receiving your visa your next step will be to get to Ishkashim. Ishkashim is now a common town and people divided by the Tajik-Afghan border. From Khorog the trip to Tajik Ishkashim should take no more than 4 hours costing only 50 somoni.

Hanis Guest House is a good place to base yourself out of before heading out to the border. The Tajik-Afghan border is typically open from Monday to Saturday from 8am to 2pm. These times are subject to change, however, due to whatever may be occurring on either bank of the river. Hanis will even call beforehand so the border guards know that you are coming.

Crossing the Border

There are little to no travelers crossing the border from Tajikistan to Afghanistan. More than likely the whole border will open just for a select few travelers.

The border crossing is pretty straightforward, the first thing you will need to keep in mind is how you will be reentering Tajikistan. Most travelers are recommended to buy a second e-visa before exiting Tajikistan. The border guards will even make sure that you have the necessary documents before stamping you out of the country.

The Afghan side was fairly lax. After the soldiers welcome you to their country, they may even be willing to pose for a few photos after crossing the border. The guards will also contact some local guides in Ishkashim to pick you up from the border. Even if you don’t want to pay for a tour, the guides will take you to register with the local police and negotiate the price for a guesthouse.

You can contact the guides directly for the most up to date information on Ishkashim here or email them here: malang.noshakh@gmail.com

What to do in Ishkashim

Ishkashim is a small rural town consisting of 20 villages. The downtown is nothing more than an intersection housing a bazaar selling anything from snacks to machine parts. The rest of the town is nestled into the side of the neighboring mountain with cascading streams trickling between mud houses and green fields. One could easily spend one to two days exploring the surrounding forests, rivers, and villages of Ishkashim.

For those with more time and money, some tourists will hike up the Wakhan valley to Sarhad-e Broghil. For those truly looking to get off the beaten track, they can continue onwards to the remote lakes of the Wakhan valley near the Chinese border. A taxi from Ishkashim to Sarhad will cost about 300 USD one way. A complete breakdown of the prices for Ishkashim and the Wakhan corridor can be found below.

Prices:

• Afghan Visa- 150-220 USD (+50 for express service)
• Tajik Single-Entry Visa – 50 USD (+20 for GBAO permit)
• Afghan Guest House (Including Meals) – 20-35 USD (Marco Polo/ Axos Guest Houses)
• Guide- 30-50 USD a day (The guards at the border will typically call a guide for you when crossing)
• Car to Sarhad- 300 USD
• Coca-Cola- 0.40 USD

Is Ishkashim Safe?

When first applying for my visa in Khorog I asked the consulate workers “Is Ishkashim safe?” They simply replied that in all of their years working at the consulate they have never had an issue. After crossing the border, the local tourism board will make sure that you register at the local tourism office (they need 5 passport photos) and ensure that you have all necessary permits for your travels.

The military presence in the bazaar is quite intense, with trucks armed with machine guns, military jeeps, and soldiers constantly patrolling back and forth down the streets. Even with all the security, it is still advised for travelers to remain vigilant. The locals will even admit that the Taliban has eyes and ears everywhere.

It was just in 2017 when government forces forced militants from the nearby town of Zebak. In the end, keeping the Taliban merely 30 km from downtown Ishkashim. All in all, Ishkashim and the Wakhan corridor has remained isolated and safe for years, allowing tourists to travel in with ease with sufficient security.

Afghanistan Welcomes You!

While wandering the terraces of Ishkashim, it is not uncommon to be invited into the homes of locals for tea and refreshments. Curious children are quick to practice some basic English and shake the hands of passing strangers. No matter what your itinerary or budget is, Afghanistan is sure to leave a lasting impression. It is everyone’s hope that in the future more of the country will open up to tourists, but till then Ishkashim will make you feel right at home with Afghan culture and hospitality.